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Underside of a vintage Griswold cast iron skillet showing the large block logo and Erie PA markings
WhatIsThisTool Editorial Team · ·11 min read

Griswold Cast Iron Identification: Logo Dating, Sizes, and Values

The short answer: flip the skillet over and read the logo. GRISWOLD in a cross inside a double circle with “ERIE PA., U.S.A.” is the classic mark — a large logo means roughly 1919–1940, a small logo means 1939–1957. Block-letter ERIE alone means pre-1907 and serious collector money. Common sizes in good condition run $25–$80; rare logos and odd sizes run into the thousands.

The best $12 I ever spent at a church rummage sale was on a skillet so black with carbonized grease that the volunteer pricing it couldn’t read the bottom. I could just make out the edge of a double circle through the crud. After a lye bath and three weeks of patience, a large block logo Griswold No. 8 emerged — worth around $70 even in a soft market, and a better cooking surface than anything I could buy new.

Griswold is the Stanley of cast iron: the most collected American maker, the deepest reference literature, and the brand most often hiding under estate sale grime. The Griswold Manufacturing Company cast cookware in Erie, Pennsylvania from 1865 until 1957, when the brand was sold and production left Erie — which is why “Erie, PA” on the bottom is the heart of every authentic mark.

Reading the Logo: The Dating Sequence

Griswold changed its trademark over the decades, and the logo sequence is how collectors date a piece. Work through these in order:

“ERIE” in block letters (1880s–1907). The earliest common mark — just the word ERIE, no Griswold name, sometimes with a pattern number. These predate the famous cross logo. Some 1880s pieces carry the “spider” trademark — a spider on a web — which is the rarest and most valuable Griswold mark; genuine examples bring four figures.

Slant logo with ERIE (1906–1916). GRISWOLD appears in slanted italic letters inside the cross-and-circle, with ERIE below. Collectors call this the “slant/ERIE.” Strong premium over later logos.

Slant logo with “ERIE PA., U.S.A.” (1909–1929). Same slanted lettering, fuller address.

Large block logo (1919–1940). The most recognized mark: GRISWOLD in upright block letters, large cross filling most of the skillet bottom, double circle, “ERIE PA., U.S.A.” This is the sweet spot for collectors who cook — abundant enough to find, old enough to have the machined finish.

Small block logo (1939–1957). Same design, shrunk to a small stamp. The final Erie production. Fully functional, modestly priced — the right buy if you want a Griswold to cook with rather than display.

Post-1957 marks. After the sale, Wagner’s parent company continued the Griswold name. Late pieces may say “Griswold” without Erie, PA. These are users, not collectibles.

Dates overlap because Griswold ran old and new patterns simultaneously — treat the ranges as eras, not bright lines.

Decoding the Numbers

Two numbers appear on most Griswold pieces, and they confuse everyone at first:

The size number (the big one — 3 through 14 on skillets) refers to stove eye sizes from the wood-stove era, not inches. A No. 3 is about 6.5” across; a No. 8 — the most common — is about 10.5”; a No. 12 is about 13”. Sizes 6, 7, 8 are everywhere. Sizes 1, 2, 13, and 14 are scarce and command multiples of the common-size price.

The pattern number (the small 3–4 digit one, e.g., 704 on a No. 8 large block skillet) identifies the exact casting pattern. It’s the verification tool: reference guides list which pattern numbers belong with which logos and eras, so a mismatched combination flags a reproduction or a married description.

Beyond Skillets

Griswold cast far more than frying pans, and the non-skillet pieces are where sleeper value hides:

  • Dutch ovens with matching lids — the “Tite-Top” line. Complete with the correct-pattern lid: $75–$250.
  • Waffle irons with ball-and-socket hinges and base frames: $50–$150 complete.
  • Muffin and gem pans — some patterns (No. 1, No. 13, wheat and corn patterns) are among the most valuable Griswold items, $100 to well over $1,000.
  • Griddles, both round and oblong: $30–$100.
  • Skillet lids — sold separately then, scarce now. A correct lid can be worth as much as the skillet under it.

Real-World Values (2026)

Based on eBay sold listings, not asking prices:

PieceConditionRange
No. 8 small block skilletGood user$25–$50
No. 8 large block skilletGood, cleaned$40–$80
No. 8 slant/ERIE skilletVery good$90–$200
Block-letter ERIE skilletVery good$150–$400
No. 13 or 14 skillet, any common logoGood$300–$900
Spider logo skilletAuthentic, any condition$1,500–$8,000
Rare muffin/gem pansExcellent$100–$1,200+

Condition rules within every row: a mirror-smooth cooking surface and crisp markings sit at the top of each range; interior pitting cuts values in half.

Spotting Fakes and Reproductions

Griswold is faked more than any other cast iron brand. The reliable tells:

Surface texture. Real Griswold was machined smooth after casting — the cooking surface should feel like glass under your fingers. Reproductions are left with the pebbly sand-cast texture you see on modern iron.

Mark quality. Authentic stamps are deep, crisp, and evenly struck. Reproduction logos look shallow, blurry, or slightly misproportioned — the cross arms wrong, the lettering fat.

Weight. Vintage Griswold is noticeably lighter than modern iron of the same size — thinner walls were a selling point. A No. 8 that feels like a boat anchor is suspect.

Gate marks vs. grinding. Very early (pre-1890s) iron has a gate mark — a thin raised line across the bottom from the casting sprue. A fake “aged” piece sometimes shows angle-grinder swirls instead.

If a deal seems too good and the piece is a rare pattern, check the pattern number against the reference book before paying collector money.

Found One Rusty? Don’t Walk Away

Rust is the great price suppressor at estate sales, and it’s almost always cosmetic. Iron under even heavy orange rust usually cleans to bare metal with electrolysis or a lye bath, and the markings come back crisp. The only true deal-killers are cracks, warping (check with a straightedge — a skillet that spins on a flat counter is warped), and deep pitting on the cooking surface.

Our cast iron restoration guide walks through the full process — and if you’re not sure the crusty thing you found is even a Griswold, a photo upload sorts that out before you commit to the elbow grease.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I know if my cast iron skillet is a Griswold? A: Flip it over. Look for GRISWOLD in a cross inside a double circle with “ERIE PA., U.S.A.” beneath, or block-letter ERIE alone on early pieces. Unmarked iron isn’t Griswold, though their budget lines (Iron Mountain, Victor) carry different marks.

Q: What do the numbers on the bottom mean? A: The large number is the stove-eye size (a No. 8 is ~10.5 inches across, not 8). The small number is the pattern number that identifies the exact casting — use it to verify authenticity against a reference guide.

Q: Which Griswold logo is most valuable? A: The 1880s spider trademark, then block-letter ERIE, then slant logos. Among common marks, large block beats small block. Odd sizes (1, 2, 13, 14) out-earn rare logos in common sizes.

Q: Does a cracked Griswold have value? A: Very little — cracks end a piece’s cooking life and collectors pass. Surface rust, on the other hand, removes completely and barely affects price.

Q: Are reproductions common? A: More than in any other cast iron brand. Check for machined-smooth cooking surfaces, deep crisp markings, and correct pattern numbers. Pebbly texture and blurry logos mean walk away.

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